Frequently Asked Questions - All FAQs

FAQs - All FAQs

There are inexpensive ways to control excess runoff created by patios, driveways, sidewalks and roofs. Whatever the soil drainage condition in your neighborhood, landscaping and careful grading of your property's surface area can be used to control runoff, reduce its speed and increase the time over which it is released. For example, land immediately adjacent to your house needs to have a downhill slope so that water does not seep through the foundation. Once the water has been carried 10 feet from the house, the surface should be graded so that runoff is released gradually.

Surface runoff can be decreased and ground water infiltration increased by following these suggestions:

  • Install gravel trenches along driveways or patios to collect stormwater and filter it into the soil.
  • Plant sod on bare patches in your lawn as soon as possible to avoid erosion.
  • Grade all areas away from your house at a gentle slope.
  • Use a grass swale, which is a man-made depression, to move water from one area to another.
  • Plant shrubs and trees to promote infiltration (see chapter on lawn and garden care).
  • If you are building a new home or in a position to consider regrading your property, you may want to create a basin, which will hold all runoff and allow it to infiltrate the soil over a longer period of time. This should be done only where drainage is good. Alternatively, you may be able to create a gently rolling surface or a system of berms, or mounds, and swales to slow run-off. Berms and swales are slight elevations and depressions in the surface that provide channels along which water will flow. If you have a wet area, you may be able to move the basin to a less used area of the yard – around shrubs or trees, for example – by installing a swale to carry the water across the yard. Be advised that most activities performed in regulated wetlands require a permit. Contact DEP Land Use Regulation for information at (609) 292-0060. Plant trees and shrubs that thrive in wet soils in the new wet area.

One method of reducing stormwater runoff is to minimize the amount of impervious surfaces such as concrete sidewalks and asphalt driveways. Impervious surfaces do not allow runoff to seep into the ground. Use pervious surfaces instead. A paving surface that allows water to soak in may seem impossible, but there are many materials that provide the durability of concrete while allowing rainwater to filter down into the ground. If you are planning a new patio, walkway or driveway, there are several attractive alternatives to concrete. Some examples of these needs are:

  • Wood or recycled material decks, usually installed for their functional good looks, can serve as a form of porous pavement. Redwood, cedar and treated pine are as durable as most nonporous surfaces such as asphalt or concrete. Decking allows rainwater to soak into the ground beneath it, and the space between the planks provides ample room for precipitation to drain directly onto the soil surface. As long as minimal air space is maintained between the soil surface and the decking, wood rot can be minimized.
  • If you are installing a new patio or rebuilding a crumbling sidewalk, you do not need to use the typical slab concrete. Using bricks, interlocking pavers or flat stones (flagstone, bluestone or granite), you can construct an attractive, durable walkway. If placed on well-drained soil or on a sand or gravel bed, these modular pavers allow rainwater infiltration. Avoid using chemicals to control weeds growing in the joints between the pavers; Corsican mint or moss can crowd out weeds and add beauty to the paved area.
  • Pre-cast concrete lattice pavers also rest on a bed of sand and gravel and allow rain to soak slowly into the ground.
  • Dutch drains, which are containers of gravel with holes used to infiltrate water from rooftops directly into the ground, carry water from rain spouts into the soil, where it gradually filters into the ground.
    These types of materials can be used wherever natural soil drainage is good and there are no problems with either bedrock near the surface or seasonal high water table.

Significant strides have also been made in the last few decades in developing porous asphalt pavement. This material is similar to conventional asphalt in durability, but it contains a much smaller percentage of very fine particles. As a result, the asphalt allows water to soak through into the soil below.

Planting trees is one way to protect land and local streams from the damage caused by excessive runoff and erosion. Trees have long been appreciated for their beauty, but their help in minimizing erosion is not as well known. Landscaping by planting shrubs, trees and ground covers has definite environmental benefits and enhances the appearance and value of property. Realtors suggest that mature trees increase the value of homes as well as the speed of sale.

Plants and trees can create outdoor rooms where you and your family can work and play. Well-planned landscaping can reduce heating and cooling costs for your house by as much as 30 percent. New shrubs and trees may attract birds and wildlife. Trees, shrubs and ground cover also require less maintenance than grass. Because trees and shrubs require less fertilizer and fewer herbicides than grass, the chances of polluting streams is minimized.

Another possibility is landscaping for wildlife. By selecting appropriate plants, landscaping can both reduce water pollution and serve wildlife. Four basic elements are needed for wildlife: food, water, shelter and space. Food can be supplied through vegetation that provides seeds, nuts or berries. Water, if not available nearby as a stream or lake, can be provided as a small pool or pond. Vegetation, a pond or even a brush pile can serve as shelter, providing protection from predators and the weather. Space needs vary among wildlife but include enough room to reproduce, find food and carry on the different stages of their life cycle. The specifics depend on whether you are trying to attract a variety of wildlife or a certain species, such as butterflies or hummingbirds. For more information, contact DEP Division of Fish, Game and Wildlife, CN 400, Trenton, NJ 08625-0400.

An environmentally sensitive landscape reduces the erosive force of rainwater runoff and increases the value of your home. By planting trees, shrubs and ground cover, you encourage excess rainwater to filter slowly into the soil instead of flowing directly into storm drains or nearby streams. Choosing trees and plants that are appropriate for your soil and growing conditions will ensure that you will have a beautiful yard.

For more information on landscaping, see the chapter on Lawn and Garden Care.

By following these few simple guidelines, you can make your home more attractive and help prevent erosion:

  • Never dump motor oil, grass trimmings, leaves, animal waste or other pollutants into the roadway or stormwater catch basins.
  • Landscape your yard to minimize rainwater runoff.
  • Divert rain from paved surfaces onto grass to permit gradual infiltration.
  • Preserve the established trees in your neighborhood, which help minimize the damage caused by surface runoff.
  • Choose the appropriate plants, shrubs and trees for the soil in your yard; do not select plants that need lots of watering, which increases surface runoff.
  • Consult your local nursery or your county’s Rutgers Cooperative Research and Extension office for advice on which plants, shrubs and trees will grow well in your yard.
After a representative from the assessor's office inspects the property (in its entirety), the property is assessed at the current market value (as of October 1). The added assessment is the amount of the difference between the old assessment and the value of the entire property at the end of the project, not the amenity itself or cost of the job. The property must be valued from scratch. The result is adjusted to the same valuation date as the date of the last town wide revaluation so that everyone has the same base year for assessment. The assessment is calculated as of October 1 and prorated for the months that it was complete. The completion date is determined by the Assessor according to "readiness for intended use" and not by the date of the final inspection. In cases where it was completed during the prior year, an omitted added assessment bill will also be received. All bills are sent out by the Tax Collector by October 25 and due payable, in full, on the following November 1. The dates for added and omitted added assessments, as well as the time frame in which the bills are mailed out and due payable, are mandated by the State of New Jersey. 
No. The final inspection by the building department does not determine the date of assessment. The assessor must value the property when that property is "substantially ready for its intended use", which is determined by the assessor and may pre-date the date used for the Certificate of Occupancy or the date of a final inspection. 

In cases where the permit does not include everything you have done, for instance you had a siding permit and you finished the basement when the work was being done, the assessor must address all of the changes during the inspection. The assessor must value the entire property each time it is re-assessed.

Not getting a permit for work done in your home does not prevent an assessment. It is also unwise to have work done without a permit for two reasons 1) building inspections are necessary for safety, not a method for raising revenue for the Township. If your house had a fire and sustained damage, and you did not get the proper permits and inspections, your insurance company might not reimburse you for damage, and 2) if the assessor's office discovers that you have done something to improve your property value, an assessment is made regardless of whether there was a permit or not. The assessor will then have to assume that the work had been done within the past two years and issue assessments for both the current and the past year. 

When you get the bill, you are obligated to pay it in full, regardless of whether or not you agree to the assessment figure on the bill. You then have until December 1 of that year to appeal the added assessment. After that date, no one will be able to appeal the added assessment, even the assessor. Please note that you do not have to speak to, or meet with, the assessor prior to filing an appeal. Additionally, your taxes must be paid in full or the case will not be heard in court.